In 2023 we went to Chicago for the first time and Kumiko was at the top of our lists for places to check out. I remember seeing their red scarf near the entrance, it being the first one that I had seen in real life. Everything with our experience there that night was impeccable. We didn’t get to meet Julia Momosé that night but we got to understand the magic of what she does. Fast forward two years and we got to meet her at Barra México. There Julia presented a seminar that she titled Between Two Worlds: Bartending at the Crossroads of Heritage. In it she shared so much about her life and ethos. She spoke about putting care into what you do – I literally teared up as she described how beautiful making a Jack and Coke can be if you just choose to execute it that way. A quote from her seminar that stood out was: “Hospitality is how we show up in the world. How we show up is indicative of who we are”. Julia shows up in an incredibly real and authentic way and we all have so much that we can learn from her and her approaches.
Bartender Atlas: Julia, where were you born?
Julia Momosé: I was born in Nara in Japan.
BA: And where do you work now?
JM: I work at Kumiko in Chicago.
BA: Were there any stops along the way?
JM: Yes. When I first moved to America, I was in upstate New York, Ithaca. Then I was in Baltimore, then Chicago.
BA: What’s your job title or how would you describe your role in the hospitality industry?
JM: I am a partner and creative director of Kumiko. I’m also the executive chef and beverage creator.
BA: Executive chef, food wise as well?
JM: Food wise since December.
BA: Where do you go out to eat and drink on your days off in Chicago?
JM: My go-tos are Le Bouchon, which is a small French restaurant, it is family run and owned for 30 plus years. Also, Rootstock, which is a wine bar.
BA: Great name for a wine bar.
JM: It’s so good, yeah.
BA: Outside of food and beverage stuff, with your time off, what do you do?
JM: I do yoga just at home, but I found that just taking that time to move has been really important for me and my mental health. I love to cook Japanese food at home as well, just simple stuff for myself. I guess that’s food-related, never mind.
BA: You’re allowed to say cooking at home.
JM: And flowers! I absolutely love them!
BA: Do you grow them or make arrangements or…
JM: Yeah, I do the florals at Kumiko, but I have lots of just potted plants at home and then when it’s nice out I like to go on walks and take photos.
BA: What’s one album that you think everyone should listen to?
JM: Ludevico Einaudi is a composer who has this album and on it is a song called Experience. And it’s so breathtakingly beautiful that I like to just put that on. [The album is also titled Experience.]
BA: What’s the best advice that you’ve ever been given?
JM: Never give up.
BA: What’s something that you’re excited about?
JM: I’m excited to see Kumiko in five years.
RETURN TO ALL HOSPITALITY GEMS
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
Posted July 25th, 2025
